Screen printing is a method of pushing ink through a fine mesh screen onto fabric. Each colour in a design has its own screen, and each screen carries a stencil that lets ink through only where the design should appear. It is the most established way to decorate T-shirts and other apparel in volume.
For clothing brands and merch businesses, screen printing is usually the most cost-effective choice once an order reaches a few hundreds pieces or more, as long as the design has a limited number of colours.
How screen printing works
- Separate the artwork. The design is split into one layer per colour.
- Make the screens. Each mesh screen is coated with light-sensitive emulsion, then exposed to light through a film of that colour layer. The unexposed areas wash out, leaving an open stencil in the shape of the design.
- Set up the press. Screens are mounted on a press and aligned so each colour lands in the right place. This alignment is called registration.
- Print. The garment is loaded on a flat board called a platen. Ink is spread over the screen and pulled across with a squeegee, which pushes it through the open mesh onto the fabric. This repeats for each colour.
- Cure. The printed garment passes through a dryer. Heat sets the ink so it survives washing.
On dark garments, printers often lay down a white underbase first so colours on top look bright.
Plastisol vs water-based ink
The two main ink families behave very differently.
| Plastisol | Water-based | |
|---|---|---|
| Hand feel | Sits on top of the fabric; slightly raised | Soaks into the fibres; very soft |
| Opacity on dark garments | Excellent | Lower, unless using discharge or extra passes |
| Typical cure temperature | About 160–166°C (320–330°F) | About 149–160°C (300–320°F) |
| Curing | Heat fuses the ink; it does not air-dry | Water must fully evaporate before the binder sets |
| Composition | PVC-based | PVC- and phthalate-free |
| Best for | Bold, opaque graphics; high volume | Soft-hand fashion prints; light garments |
There are also specialty inks, such as discharge ink, which removes the garment's dye and replaces it with colour, and puff additives, which make the print rise into a soft, raised texture.
What screen printing does well
- Low cost per piece at volume. Once screens are made, each extra print is fast and cheap.
- Bright, opaque colour, especially with plastisol on dark garments.
- Durability. Properly cured prints withstand repeated washing.
- Special effects: metallics, puff, glow and high-density inks.
- Exact colour matching with mixed inks.
Where it is less suitable
- Small runs. Screen and setup costs are spread over fewer pieces, so the price per shirt rises.
- Many colours or photographic detail. Every colour adds a screen and cost; full-colour images need special techniques. Like DTG
- Frequent design changes. Each new design needs new screens.
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Some synthetics. Polyester can release dye into the ink during curing, so a white print on a red shirt can turn pink. This is called dye migration, and printers manage it with low-cure or low-bleed inks.
Which garments print best
Screen printing works on most cotton and cotton-rich garments. A smooth, tightly knit surface, such as ring-spun cotton, gives sharper edges and finer detail than a rough open-end surface.
Fabric weight matters too. Very light fabrics can show ink through to the inside, while mid-weight and heavier tees give a firm, opaque surface. Our guide to the best GSM for T-shirts explains how to choose a fabric weight for your product.
How it compares
Screen printing is usually the best value for larger runs with a few colours. DTG (direct-to-garment) suits small, detailed, full-colour runs on cotton, and DTF (direct-to-film) suits small runs on a wide range of fabrics, including polyester.
Calvi Blanks offers printing and finishing alongside its blanks, so you can source the garment and its decoration in one place. Find out more on our printing and finishing services page, or browse blanks in our T-shirts collection.
Frequently asked questions
What is screen printing used for?
T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags, posters and other flat or soft surfaces, especially for larger orders with a few colours.
Is screen printing better than DTG?
For larger runs with few colours, usually yes: it costs less per piece and gives bold, durable colour. DTG is better for small runs and photographic artwork.
How long does screen printing last?
A properly cured print can last as long as the garment. Under-cured prints crack or wash out early.
Why does screen printing have minimums?
Each colour needs its own screen and setup. Minimums spread that cost over enough pieces to keep the price per shirt reasonable.
Can you screen print on polyester?
Yes, with inks made for polyester and controlled curing to avoid dye migration.